Refinishing Rusty Old Patio Furniture
Outdoor furniture getting rusty is common and can be easily fixed. Although buying new furniture to replace older patio furniture is fun, it’s not always in the budget. If that’s the direction you choose to go, check out our selection of wrought iron patio furniture.
Alternatively, if you don’t want your furniture to rust, no matter how long it’s kept outside, take a look at our outdoor aluminum patio furniture. Cast aluminum is lightweight and never rusts. If you’re looking for low-maintenance furniture, that’s the direction to go! But maybe you’d rather refinish your current furniture than buy new stuff.
Buying new patio furniture isn’t cheap; we get that. Removing rust and refinishing patio furniture is a pretty simple task! It’s also much cheaper than buying new ones. We’ll give you some general steps and recommendations to ensure your patio furniture refinishing experience is a breeze.
Frequently Asked Questions: Refinishing Rusty Patio Furniture
Inspect structure and old finishes first. If you see deep pitting, pinholes, soft metal, flexing joints, or cracked welds, repair or replace before painting. Very old paint may contain lead. Use a test kit or follow lead-safety guidance before you sand or grind.
Work in mild, dry weather with PPE. Prime and paint at 50–90°F with humidity under 85%, out of direct sun and wind. Wear goggles, gloves, and a respirator. Follow the recoat window and cure times listed on the can for best results.
Use mechanical tools, then sand and degrease. Knock down rust with a wire brush or cup, or an angle grinder with 80–120 grit. Hand sand 80–100 then 150–220. For heavy rust, use naval jelly or a rust converter. Wipe with acetone or alcohol, then prime immediately to avoid flash rust.
Match primer to metal and spot-prime rust. Use rust-inhibiting primer on iron or steel. Use self-etching or zinc-chromate on aluminum, and self-etching rated for galvanized steel. Apply 2–3 thin coats. White under light colors, dark under dark colors.
Spray thin coats and add a compatible clear coat. Use high-quality outdoor oil-based spray paint. Keep a steady distance and follow the recoat window. Seal with a UV-protective clear enamel or outdoor oil urethane that is compatible with your paint.
Clean, cover, and touch up promptly. Wash gently each season and dry fully. Cover or store pieces dry in the off-season. Inspect welds and joints, touch up chips quickly, and add felt or plastic feet to keep legs off wet concrete.
Powder coat is toughest; DIY is cheaper and flexible. Powder coating gives very durable, even coverage but requires a shop and often runs about $100–$500+ per chair, size and prep dependent. DIY spray paint costs less and is easy to touch up. Durability depends on prep and conditions.
Before you get started:
Quick Pre‑Checks & Conditions (Read This First)
- Save it or scrap it? If you see deep pitting, pinholes, soft/crumbly metal, flexing joints, or cracked welds, consider repair or replacement before refinishing. Vintage pieces with very old paint may contain lead—use a test kit or follow EPA lead‑safety guidance.
- Ideal conditions: Prime/paint in 50–90°F (10–32°C) with relative humidity under 85%, out of direct sun, and with minimal wind. Respect the recoat window and cure times on the can.
- Tool upgrades that speed prep: wire‑cup brush on a drill or rotary tool, angle grinder with flap disc (80–120 grit), and for severe rust, sandblasting (pro shop) or a rust converter (tannic‑acid based) before priming.
It’s always a good idea to utilize protective equipment. We recommend goggles, gloves, and a respirator mask. Better safe than sorry!
If you decide you're interested in a new set of wrought iron furniture, check out the Monterra Swivel Rocker Dining Arm Chair from OW Lee. Elegant, sturdy, and plush.
Step 1:
The first step is to remove the rust from your patio furniture. The easiest way to go about this is by using a wire brush to remove the big pieces of rust. These should come off fairly easily. If you’re trying to remove rust from some hard-to-reach or curved places, sanding off the rust by hand is a great option. We usually recommend 80-100 grit sandpaper. If you got some heavy rust that doesn’t want to leave the chair, a commercial rust remover is your final option. The two best options are a naval jelly or a rust converter. After you’ve removed the majority of the rust, it’s best to sand the entire piece with 150-grit sandpaper until it feels smooth. This is in preparation for the primer.
Pro Tip: Once you start the rust removal process, it’s important to continue to remove it all and then prime immediately after. If you don’t, your furniture is susceptible to “flash rusting”.
Step 2:
Pro Tip — Faster Rust Removal & Better Prep
- Knock down heavy rust with a wire‑cup brush (drill/rotary) or an angle grinder; step your sanding from 80/100 → 150/220 for a smooth base.
- After mechanical removal, degrease thoroughly: wipe with denatured alcohol (or acetone), then vacuum dust and use a tack cloth so primer bonds well.
The next task is to make sure the chair is completely clean. The best bet is to use a solvent like acetone to properly remove all the dirt and grime accumulated from normal use. It’s important that the chair is clean for priming. Once the cleaning process is finished, ensure your furniture is completely dry to prevent future rust.
A sleek, modern Avion 8 Piece Sectional Set with plush, fade-resistant cushions and clean, resort-worthy lines.
Step 3:
Spot‑Prime Rust First
Hit previously rusted areas with a rust‑inhibiting spot primer, let it flash off, then prime the entire piece. This helps block rust bleed‑through.
Choose the Right Primer (by Metal Type)
| Metal | Primer | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wrought/cast iron, steel | Rust‑inhibiting metal primer | 2–3 thin coats, full coverage |
| Aluminum | Self‑etching or zinc‑chromate primer |
Improves adhesion; prevents peeling |
| Galvanized steel | Self‑etching primer rated for galvanized |
Avoid plain rust primer alone |
This is one of the more important steps, priming your furniture! We highly recommend using a high-quality rust-prevention spray primer. What was the point of all that work to remove the rust if you’re not going to take measures to prevent future rusting? You’ll want to use 2-3 very thin layers of primer before the paint. Using a spray-based primer is best because patio furniture is often intricate, and it is difficult to get into all the crevices with your standard paintbrush.
Pro Tip: Use a white primer under lighter paint colors and a dark primer under darker paint colors!
Step 4:
Application Conditions & Recoat Window
Apply multiple thin coats at a consistent distance. Recoat within the time range printed on the can to avoid lifting or orange‑peel. Keep temps/humidity within spec for best leveling and durability.
After you’re done letting the primer dry, you’re ready for the paint. Be sure to use high-quality oil-based paint that is recommended for outdoor use. As with the primer, spray-on paint is your best bet in this situation. 2-3 thin coats should do the trick! Keep in mind the best way to get even coats is to maintain a consistent distance from a spray can to the furniture for every coat.
The Jax 4-Seater Loveseat Set is crisp and modern with angular mesh-frame lines and plush, fade-resistant Sunbrella cushions.
Step 5:
Topcoat Compatibility & Finish Options
Ensure your clear coat is compatible with your paint (oil ↔ oil, water ↔ water unless labeled compatible). For metal, a clear enamel or UV‑resistant clear adds longevity. Note that some oil urethanes can amber slightly. If you like texture, consider hammered or textured finishes for hiding minor surface flaws.
Now that your furniture is free of rust and your desired color, it’s time for the sealer. The best practice is to use a sealer with UV protection to prevent fading. Look for a clear oil-based urethane that’s meant for outdoor use.
Step 6:
Maintenance & Rust Prevention (Post‑Refinish)
- Wash gently every season; dry thoroughly.
- Cover or store dry in the off‑season.
- Inspect welds/joints quarterly; touch up chips immediately to stop rust creep.
- Add felt/plastic feet to keep legs off wet concrete.
Powder‑Coating vs DIY Paint (Quick Compare)
- Powder‑coat (pro): extremely durable, even coverage; color selection varies; touch‑ups require paint, not powder. Typical shop pricing can range from ~$100–$500+ per chair depending on size/prep.
- DIY paint: inexpensive, easy touch‑ups, wide color/finish variety; durability depends on prep, conditions, and maintenance.
Let your furniture dry in a well-ventilated area and admire your handiwork! Congrats, you’ve refinished your patio furniture. Now you’re ready for another summer season of lounging outside.
This video is a solid tutorial on painting and cleaning your rusty furniture, don’t forget to prime it!
